Nestled in the town of Bansberia in the Hooghly district of West Bengal, the Hanseswari Temple (also spelled as Hanseshwari Temple) stands as a testament to architectural grandeur and the spiritual depth of its builder. This captivating temple, devoted to the goddess Hanseswari (a form of Kali), is an architectural masterpiece that leaves visitors awe-inspired by its unique design and rich symbolism. Join me on a journey to explore the enigmatic architecture of this remarkable temple.
Construction of the Hanseswari temple was started by Nrisimhadeva Ray, the great grandson of Rameshwar Ray, who built the neighbouring Ananta Vasudeva terracotta temple. A brief outline of how the family came to be in Bansberia can be read in my previous blog post.
Upon the death of Nrisimhadeva Ray’s father, Govindeva, many parts of the huge zamindari owned by the family were stolen. Lord Cornwallis and Warren Hastings helped recover some of the land, but to regain all the lost zamindari an application had to be made to the Court of Directors in London. Needless to say it was a costly process in both time and money. It is around this time that Nrisimhadeva left Bansberia and spent seven years in Kashi (Varanasi) practicing Tantra from 1792 – 1799 (he also wrote a book entitled ‘Uddishtantra’ during his time there). Upon his return to Bansberia, instead of spending time and money recovering full ownership of the zamindari, he decided build a temple in Tantra with the funds he had saved up for his trip to London.
The foundation stone for Hanseswari temple was laid in 1799, but just three years later in 1802 he passed away leaving the temple unfinished, only the first two storeys having been completed. As per the then tradition, the elder wife died (Sati) along with the funeral pyre of the Raja Nrisinhadeb. It was left to Rani Sankari, Nrisimhadeva’s second wife, to complete the unfinished temple on behalf of her husband. It would seem that no expense was spared in the efforts to complete Nrisimhadeva’s vision, stone was brought from Chunar in Uttar Pradesh (700km away) and many artisans were hired from Jaipur in Rajasthan (over 1,500km away). It is said that the entire temple build cost at the time was Rs 5 lakh.
Reaching a height of just over 21m, the south-facing Hanseswari temple is unlike any other temple in West Bengal. The five-storied temple was built according to Tantra, and is cruciform in plan with a total of 13 pinnacles; eight in the corner, four in the middle, and one at the very center. The top of each pinnacle is shaped like a lotus flower.
The main deity is a blue idol of the four-armed Goddess Hanseswari, a manifestation of Goddess Kali, made from neem wood. The deity has been designed and installed following the concept of Yoga and Pranayam. The word “Hong” is pronounced at the time of breathing out, whereas the word “S-a-a” is uttered at the time of breathing in. “Hong” manifests “Shiva” and “S-a-a” represents “Mother Shakti”. A room beneath the central pinnacle houses a white marble Shiva Linga, hence the name ‘Haneswari’ as the temple contains deities of both Shiva and Shakti.
Right : The four-armed Goddess Hanseswari, a manifestation of Kali
The inner structure of the building resembles the human anatomy, and is an architectural representation of “Tantrik Satchakrabhed”, the esoteric practices of Tantra and Kundalini yoga. The five-storey shrine represents the structure (or “nadis”) of a human body – Ira, Pingala, Bajraksha, Sushumna and Chitrini. These are channels or pathways through which the subtle life force energy, often referred to as “prana” or “kundalini,” flows. These nadis are considered important in practices like yoga, meditation, and tantra.
The 13 pinnacles symbolize the five sense organs, five work/activity organs, mind, intelligence and soul of a human being. On the highest storey in the central spire there is a white marble Shiva Linga that is the ultimate symbol of “Param Purush” (the source and essence of all existence, the ultimate goal of spiritual realization, and the divine consciousness that underlies and sustains the universe). The Hanseswari deity resides in the stalk of the sanctum (centre of the womb i.e. the temple) and symbolizes the strength of Kulakundalini Shakti.
Entry to the temple is through an arched gateway that leads straight to the sanctum sanctorum, where an idol of Hanseswari is placed on a lotus in an inner chamber. This inner chamber is connected to the domes above through a series of complex narrow passageways, said to represent the nerves in a human body. Unfortunately, entry to the passageways is restricted for tourists and the temple was quite busy with devotees which deterred me from taking many photographs.
The foundation stone high above the temple entrance (and difficult to photograph) is in Sanskrit, and reads :
This holy temple made resplendent by Hangseshwari in the company of fourteen Sivas who are so many doors to salvation (Mokska) it was begun by the earthly lord Nrisinhadeb of good deeds, and has in obedience to his mandate been completed by his wife, the auspicious Sankari, who is constantly devoted to the lotus- feet of her Guru. In the Saka year 1736.
The Hanseswari Temple is immediately adjacent to the much earlier Ananta Vasudeva terracotta temple, built in 1679 CE by Raja Rameshwar Roy. Whether you are interested in architecture, cultural exploration, or spiritual enrichment, these temples provide a unique and enriching opportunity to connect with the rich heritage of West Bengal.
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