St. Paul’s Cathedral stands as one of Kolkata’s most iconic landmarks. This remarkable Church of North India (CNI) cathedral, rooted in Anglican tradition, holds a revered place in Kolkata’s heritage, not only as the largest church in the city but as a timeless testament to the confluence of Gothic design and colonial history. Dedicated to Paul the Apostle, the cathedral is rich in architectural brilliance and historical significance, making it a must-visit for anyone interested in Kolkata’s storied past.
The need for St. Paul’s Cathedral arose in the early 19th century, as Kolkata’s original St. John’s Church could no longer accommodate the city’s growing European population. By 1810, the British community in Bengal had expanded significantly, with thousands of residents calling the bustling city of Calcutta (now Kolkata) their home. In 1819, Governor-General Francis Rawdon-Hastings commissioned a Royal Engineers officer, William Nairn Forbes (later promoted to Major General), to create a design for a new cathedral, with the assistance of architect C.K. Robinson. However, the proposed structure was deemed excessively expensive, and the government declined to release funds for its construction.
Forbes, at Bishop Daniel Wilson’s urging, altered the design to its current configuration, and Bishop Middleton, one of the leading advocates for the cathedral, proposed a site for it south of the city center. The proposed site was initially thought to be too remote, and the ground perhaps unsuitable for such a large construction. But the need for a grander place of worship was clear, and under the guidance of Bishop Daniel Wilson, plans for St. Paul’s Cathedral came to life in 1832. Being constructed on marshy ground would later lead to numerous structural issues. Forbes, cognizant of the potential complications, documented them in his notes. Due to the likelihood that the structure would settle into the marshy soil, he stated, it was critical to maintain a very light roof. Consequently, this would guarantee minimal lateral rigidity.
Left : Governor-General Francis Rawdon-Hastings (1754 – 1826)
Middle : Bishop Daniel Wilson (1778 – 1858)
Right : Bishop Thomas Fanshaw Middleton (1769 – 1822)
In 1839, the cornerstone of the cathedral was laid on a seven-acre site along what is now known as Cathedral Road. The location, part of the area now called the “island of attractions,” provided an ideal open space for the vast cathedral and would later be surrounded by Kolkata’s major landmarks, including the Victoria Memorial, Rabindra Sadan, and the Birla Planetarium. The cathedral was to embody the Gothic revival style but adapted to India’s unique climate – a style that would later be called “Indo-Gothic.”
D’Oyly left Calcutta in 1838 and thus never saw St Paul’s cathedral, which began construction in the following year. Perhaps he saw the architect’s designs, or a lithograph after William Clerihew published in 1845, which this image is said to closely resemble.
After eight years of intensive construction, St. Paul’s Cathedral was completed in 1847. Queen Victoria herself commemorated the opening by sending ten pieces of silver-gilt plate for the cathedral’s consecration, and the event attracted a large gathering of both European and local residents. At the time of its completion, St. Paul’s became not only Kolkata’s largest church but also Asia’s first Anglican cathedral.
St. Paul’s is famous for its unique Indo-Gothic architecture. This Gothic revival style was modified to withstand the tropical climate of Kolkata, especially in light of past earthquakes that had impacted the city. The earthquake of 1897 destroyed the upper part of the steeple, which subsequently completely collapsed in the 1934 earthquake that devastated much of the city. The redesigned tower was built to reflect the Bell Harry Tower of Canterbury Cathedral in England.
The cathedral’s nave is a spacious 247 feet in length and 81 feet wide, adorned with Gothic arches and intricate tracery, making it one of the largest interior spaces in Kolkata. The stained-glass windows on the western side, created by Sir Edward Burne-Jones, a renowned pre-Raphaelite artist, were installed in 1880 to honor Lord Mayo, a former Viceroy of India. These windows, along with others scattered throughout the cathedral, fill the space with colorful, filtered light, giving it an almost sacred glow.
The original East window was destroyed in a cyclone in 1964 and was replaced in 1968. The Florentine Renaissance-style frescoes add a touch of classical artistry, while the reredos, a decorative altar wall created by Sir Arthur Blomfield, features carvings depicting scenes from the life of St. Paul, the Annunciation, and the Flight into Egypt. Near the altar is the episcopal throne on the southern flank and the baptismal font, a striking piece depicting Bishop Heber in a posture of prayer.
The cathedral honors its patrons and historical figures with memorial plaques. Bishop Daniel Wilson, who spearheaded the construction of St. Paul’s, lies interred in an underground chamber beneath the church, where a plaque bestowed by Queen Victoria also pays tribute to him. Another notable memorial is for Sir John Paxton Norman, an acting Chief Justice assassinated in 1871.
The architect of St. Paul’s Cathedral in Kolkata
Though its rich history is rooted in the 19th century, St. Paul’s Cathedral continues to adapt to modern needs. Today, it features a Viscount Vivace 40 electric organ, installed as a replacement for previous organs dating back to the 1930s.
The cathedral’s also has a library (not visited), the brainchild of Bishop Wilson. He generously donated over 8,000 books and manuscripts, which were later supplemented by donations from W. Gordon and Rev. J. Nath of the University of Oxford and the Calcutta Bible Society. This library also houses a marble statue of Bishop Wilson.
Surrounding St. Paul’s Cathedral is a meticulously maintained garden, an inviting space with paths winding around lush greenery. Originally planted with 63 species of trees, the garden contributes to the cathedral’s tranquil atmosphere. The entrance is marked by the Sir William Prentice Memorial Gate, an ornate wrought-iron structure commemorating a long-time member of the congregation.
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