Radha Shyam Temple – Bishnupur

Constructed in 1758 by Chaitanya Singha Dev, the 56th king of the Malla dynasty, the Radha Shyam Temple is the last great temple to be built in Bishnupur. Many of the earlier temples in the town showcased exquisite terracotta brickwork and ornamentation, but subsequent ones predominantly utilized laterite, a readily available local stone.

There are many theories as to why there was this shift in construction materials. Burnt clay is obviously vulnerable to weathering and erosion, whereas stone is far more durable. With the relative isolation of the Malla kingdom during the 16th-18th centuries, another possibility is the lack of stone cutting expertise in the local craftsman. Initial cost and on-going maintenance is another factor to consider, it is clear in earlier terracotta temples that some degree of renovations were needed, probably on a semi-regular basis.

Whether these temples were reconstructed on the sites of older terracotta structures or if they were entirely new constructions remains unknown. It is interesting to note that the temple gateway is constructed of traditional terracotta bricks, perhaps a clue that at one time there was a terracotta temple on the site of Radha Shyam. Regardless of the reasons for the adoption of laterite instead of brick, the later temples in Bishnupur predominantly adopted stone as their primary building material, marking a gradual architectural revolution in the town.

With a square plinth measuring approximately 11.1m and a height of 10.7m, the temple features a main sanctum with a curved roof, cross vaults, and a cylindrical spire in ek-ratna style, very similar to the Madan Mohan Temple located 1km north of here. The spire, topped with a semi-spherical dome and a pinnacle or Kalasha, was reportedly used to house the deities during festivals, enabling a much larger audience to view the image from a distance.

Dedicated to Sri Krishna and Sri Radha, the Radha Shyam Temple boasts some exquisite carvings. Despite the craftsmen’s transition to stone, they seemed hesitant to carve motifs directly onto the blocks, opting instead for stucco, a blend of clay and lime known as ‘pankha’, for the surface decoration.

For me the most impressive ornamentation on the temple occurs along the base friezes of the south-facing entrance. Here we can see hunting and battle scenes, coupled with a band above which I’m not able to fully identify, but may be scenes from the early life of Krishna.

Two rows of stucco figures are set within square blocks fixed along the side walls and the lower part of the cornice. A row of similar decoration can also be seen along the sides of the three arched openings. The inner portion of the three arched porches are also decorated.

The stucco ornamentation within the porches is extremely well preserved, sheltered well away from the elements. One of the best preserved motifs is the notable Ananta Shayana Vishnu (Lord Vishnu in a reclining position).

For all the fine preservation on the internal porch walls, the same cannot be said for the stucco that still resides (just) on the external temple walls. Much has been lost here, and very little renovation seems to have occurred in recent years.

I find it somewhat perplexing that on my visit the nearby Lalji Temple was closed for renovations, a temple with no notable ornamentation at all, while next door this temple is screaming out for some long overdue attention. I imagine more and more of this stucco will be disappearing as each year passes, and soon we will be left with almost nothing, other than historical photographs of how it once looked.

Similar to most Bishnupur temples, the Radha Shyam Temple includes three arched gateways on all sides. While all the gateways feature cusped arch entries, a departure from the corbelled gates of the terracotta structures is evident. The side gateways incorporate corbelled walls between them, whereas the front side displays straight walls with a stone pillar motif at the edge, a slight deviation from the conventional regional architecture.

Surrounded by a walled enclosure with a distinctive gateway structure, the Radha Shyam Temple juxtaposes its stone construction with a traditional terracotta brick gateway. The two-level gateway, with a larger lower level, features a triple-arched passage with cusped arches. The front and back elevations of the gateway showcase some terracotta carvings, predominantly floral motifs.

As the youngest among the Bishnupur temples, the Radha Shyam Temple stands out for its advanced architecture and sculpture, solidifying its status as one of the city’s premier ek-ratna temples.


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