During the golden days of Kolkata, the city’s first Jewish settlers arrived, marking the beginning of a vibrant community. The first recorded Jewish immigrant was Shalome Obadiah Ha-Cohen, who arrived on August 4th, 1798, from Aleppo, Syria. A successful trader, he dealt in gems, rosewater, Arabian horses, spices, silks, and indigo. He even served as a court jeweler to the Nawab of Awadh and later traveled to Punjab to the court of Maharaj Ranjit Singh. According to legend, he was once tasked with valuing the infamous Kohinoor diamond.
Soon after, other Jewish families from Baghdad and Isfahan followed, and by the mid-1830s, Kolkata had a thriving Jewish population. Their influence in the city grew, with many Jews controlling a significant share of the trade. As the community expanded, the need for a place of worship became evident.
In 1831, Moses Duek Cohen, the son-in-law of Shalome Obadiah Ha-Cohen, built Neveh Shalome Synagogue, Kolkata’s first synagogue. Moses had assumed leadership of the growing Jewish community and was instrumental in purchasing land for both Neveh Shalome and Beth El Synagogue. At that time, the Jewish population in Kolkata numbered around 600.
Neveh Shalome Synagogue was initially a modest prayer hall located at the intersection of Brabourne Road and Canning Street (now Biplabi Rashbehari Road), where the grand Maghen David Synagogue now stands. As the community continued to grow in size and influence, they sought more significant places of worship, leading to the construction of Beth El Synagogue on Pollock Street in 1856 and Maghen David Synagogue in 1884.
In 1884, the original Neveh Shalome Synagogue was demolished to make way for the grand Maghen David Synagogue. However, this change in name sparked discontent within the community. Many members were unhappy with the replacement, feeling that the Maghen David could not truly succeed Neveh Shalome. In response, in 1910, the Jews of Kolkata decided to rebuild the Neveh Shalome Synagogue on a vacant plot within the Maghen David Synagogue complex. The reconstruction was funded largely by prominent community members: Seemah Joseph Jacob Judah Ezekiel donated Rs. 20,000, Lady Rachel Jacob Sassoon contributed Rs. 10,000, and synagogue funds added Rs. 7,500.
The new Neveh Shalome Synagogue remained true to its roots, keeping a simple design reminiscent of the original prayer hall. Nevertheless, it quickly became a focal point for the thriving Jewish community in the city.
However, the golden era of Kolkata’s Jewish community was short-lived. Following India’s independence in 1947 and the establishment of the Jewish state of Israel in 1948, the Jewish population in Kolkata began to decline rapidly. As a close-knit and family-centered community, once a few families began leaving, others soon followed. This exodus, which continued through the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s, destabilized the once-flourishing Jewish community. Many of those who left migrated to the UK, Australia, Canada, the USA, and Israel. Today, over 100,000 Indian Jews live in Israel, but fewer than 4,000 remain in India.
As the population dwindled, services in Kolkata’s synagogues ceased, and the once magnificent buildings fell into disrepair. In the early 2000s, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) restored the Magen David and Beth El Synagogues, bringing them back to their former glory. Unfortunately, Neveh Shalome Synagogue was not included in the ASI’s heritage restoration efforts and was left neglected. It wasn’t until 2014 that the Jewish community took it upon themselves to restore the synagogue.
Right : Street entrance to Neveh Shalome Synagogue, obscured by the market stalls outside.
Today, Neveh Shalome Synagogue has been beautifully restored, with its simple yet elegant interiors standing as a testament to the community’s past. The central podium and the passage leading to the apse, though lacking stained glass windows or a starry sky ceiling, still evoke the spirit of its original design. While the interior remains modest, the chandeliers and furnishings create an ambiance that reflects the bygone days of Kolkata’s Jewish community.
To visit Neveh Shalome Synagogue, permission is typically required from Ms. A M Cohen, General Secretary of Jewish Community Affairs, located at the Jewish Girls School in Kolkata. However, during my visit, I was fortunate enough that the guards of the neighboring Maghen David Synagogue kindly opened the doors for me.
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