Located 13 km east of Bishnupur, West Bengal, the small town of Joypur is home to two stunning Navaratna (nine-pinnacled) terracotta temples. These temples, found in Dutta Para and De Para, were built by two prominent local families, the Duttas and the De, who were once influential zamindars and cloth merchants.
In a previous post, I wrote about my brief visit to the Radha Damodar Temple, built by the Dutta family. Just 120 meters further east along Depara Road is the second Navaratna temple, belonging to the De family, and identified on Google Maps as “Sridharlal Temple.”
Like the Dutta family, the De’s were also well-known cloth merchants. They specialized in producing Kutni cloth, a fabric made from silk and cotton yarns, dyed naturally with vegetable dyes.
Architecturally, this temple is quite similar to the Radha Damodar Temple, standing at around 12 meters tall. It features nine ridged rekha-style pinnacles in the same arrangement. The entrances are on the southern and eastern sides, connected by internal corridors. The temple is two-storied, with the upper level having triple-arched gateways on three sides, except the northern side. A distinguishing feature of this temple is its high plinth, which is accessible via steps that lead to the entrance next to a deep well. The temple remains within the compound of the old De family mansion and is still maintained by their descendants.
On the central arch panel, the first three sub-panels depict scenes from the Ramayana, specifically after Rama ascends to the throne in Ayodhya. The first two sub-panels show nobles, saints, and monkey soldiers standing beside Rama and Sita as they sit on the throne. The third sub-panel portrays a fascinating episode from the Ramayana, where Rama unknowingly fights his sons, Lava and Kusha, in an attempt to retrieve the Ashwamedha horse, while Rishi Valmiki intervenes. Hanuman is positioned beyond Rama, with Lava, Kusha, and several of Rama’s soldiers, along with the Ashwamedha horse, all bound. Above the entrance of the temple, the final sub-panel displays two elongated lions facing each other against a floral background.
The left arch panel is largely dedicated to a detailed depiction of the battle between Rama and Ravana from the Ramayana. Upon closer inspection, you can spot a tiny sub-panel beneath it that shows Rama shooting an arrow at the golden deer, which is the demon Maricha in disguise.
On the right arch panel, there are three sub-panels. The first two depict processions featuring palanquins and musicians, while the third shows a group of musicians. Unfortunately, the second panel is severely damaged and has been crudely repaired with cement.
Between the arch panels, there are four vertical terracotta panels divided into sub-panels, each showcasing single figures. These include representations of the Dashavatara (ten incarnations of Vishnu), a six-handed Krishna, and various warriors. One of these figures, standing with a sinister-looking axe, could possibly be Parashurama.
Sadly, I didn’t have enough time to document the other decorated elevations of this Navaratna temple. My limited time in Joypur is one of my biggest regrets from this road trip through West Bengal. As I walked along Depara and Duttapara Road to visit these two temples, I caught glimpses of many old structures and temples in the village, many of them abandoned and at risk of disappearing over time.
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